NRG Winter Climbing: Our Top 5 Favorite South-Facing Crags
Winter climbing in the New River Gorge isn’t just possible—it can be downright glorious if you know where to go. With crisp temps, low humidity, and fewer crowds, cold-weather sending conditions can be prime. The trick? Finding sun-drenched rock to keep your fingers from turning into icicles.
Here’s your guide to the best south-facing crags in the NRG to help you stay warm while crushing this winter.
Whippoorwill & Long Point
Why? Once the lake is drained for the winter, the exposed white rock reflects sunlight, turning the lakebed into a solar oven. It’s not uncommon to see climbers here in t-shirts in January.
What You’ll Find:
Whippoorwill offers mostly sport lines, with more moderates and closer bolt spacing than the rest of the gorge.
Long Point features a mix of sport and trad, including some stellar cracks.
These crags are only accessible when the water is down (September-April), so get after it while you can!
2. Endless Wall
Why? Tons of sun, and the steep gorge walls mean fewer trees blocking the rock.
What You’ll Find:
Nearly three miles of superb sport lines, legendary cracks, and technical trad face climbs.
Not as many moderates, but if you’re comfortable at 5.11 and up, you’ll love it here.
If you’re looking for some of the hardest routes in the New, the Cirque is where it’s at.
3. Summersville Lake
Why? South-facing and fully exposed, making it one of the warmest spots to climb in winter.
What You’ll Find:
Sport-heavy climbing, with areas like Orange Oswald, Long Wall, and Gun Wall stacked with classic 5.10s.
The Coliseum—a stout collection of steep, hard classics for those looking to test their endurance.
4. Pirate’s Cove Boulders
Why? In summer, it’s underwater. In winter? It’s a sun-soaked, alien landscape waiting for YOU to explore.
What You’ll Find:
191 newly documented problems, with tons of great moderates and plentiful warm-ups.
These boulders aren’t in the guidebook, but we carry a brand-new Pirate’s Cove pamphlet at Water Stone!
5. Hawk’s Nest & Cotton Hill
Why? South-facing and slightly warmer than the rest of the gorge since it sits at a lower elevation.
What You’ll Find:
Cotton Hill – Excellent, well-bolted techy face climbs.
Hawk’s Nest Boulders – A dense collection of riverside blocs near the dam.
Winter Climbing Tips for the NRG
✅ Chase the sun. South-facing walls warm up fast—plan your day accordingly.
✅ Check the guidebook. Each wall specifies if it gets AM, PM, or all-day sun.
✅ Layer up. Start with a lightweight base layer, add an insulating mid-layer, and top it off with a windproof jacket.
✅ Bring hand warmers. Stash them in your chalk bag to keep your fingers from numbing out on lead.
✅ Warm up properly. Do jumping jacks, swing your arms, and stretch before jumping on your project.
Send It This Winter!
Climbing season doesn’t have to end when the temps drop. With the right crags, the right layers, and a solid thermos of coffee, winter climbing in the NRG can be some of the best of the year.
Photo credit: Karen Lane
