Cliffside Etiquette and Adventure Tips
by Jeff Hearn of New River Mountain Guides
Hey there, adventure seekers! Jeff Hearn here, your friendly neighborhood manager and guide at New River Mountain Guides. If you've ever ventured out to the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, you've probably noticed the same thing I have: climbers. Lots and lots of climbers. They’re as much a part of the landscape as the stunning cliffs themselves.
Back in the day, this park was all about the whitewater at the bottom, not the cliffline at the top. But times have changed, and climbers have become one of the major user groups in the park. And with the National River getting its shiny new National Park designation, we’ve got even more visitors coming to check out our vertical playground.
Now, sharing is caring, right? Climbers, hikers, and other park enthusiasts all use the same parking lots and trails. It’s like one big, happy (and sometimes crowded) family.
“But with great numbers come great responsibilities. ”
Yep, I just quoted Uncle Ben. Spiderman has nothing on us when it comes to cliffside etiquette. So, let's dive into some guidelines to keep our playground pristine and enjoyable for everyone.
General Guidelines for Being an Epic Climber and Park Steward
Parking:
Park only in designated areas. Don’t be that person who blocks roads or driveways. If it’s full, take it as a sign to explore another spot. Flexibility is the name of the game. Anyway, if the parking lot is full, the rock is probably equally packed. You don’t want to wait in line for routes anyway, right? If you need a recommendation to avoid the crowds, your friendly neighborhood NRMG guides and Water Stone employees are a great resource! We love to talk climbing, so feel free to chat us up.
Trails:
Stick to existing trails. Our mantra is “durable surfaces minimize impact.” Trust me, the plants will thank you.
Litter and trash:
Pack it in, pack it out. Even if it’s not yours. Leave no trace means exactly that. Bonus points for picking up any stray trash you find.
Private property:
Respect private landowners' rights. Many “short cuts” and social trails cross private lands. No trespassing means no trespassing.
Human Waste:
Use restrooms and pit toilets when available. In undeveloped areas, a WAG bag or another appropriate waste management system is a must. Nobody likes a surprise on the trail. The New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) stocks WAG bags at some of the most popular crags.
We ❤️ NRAC! Check out their great work and maybe even donate to the cause here:
Or, you can replenish your WAG bag stash at Water Stone, we carry them in store.
Enforceable Regulations (aka Ticketable Offenses)
These ones could earn you a ticket from park rangers. Wouldn’t you rather save that coin for a shiny new Tricam or a room temp IPA at the end of the day?
Pets:
Pets must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet. One person can manage a max of 2 pets. And yes, park rules say you need to pick up their poop. It’s a small thing, but it makes a big difference.
Unmanned Aircraft (Drones):
No drone zone! Launching, landing, or operating a drone within park boundaries is a big no-no.
Fire:
Fires are banned within 300 feet of the top or bottom of any cliff. Let’s keep the park wildfire-free, shall we?
Plants/Vegetation:
Hands off! Except for designated areas, it’s illegal to mess with plants and vegetation. That means no removing vegetation, cutting limbs, or carving trees.
Vandalism:
Destroying, defacing, or damaging park property (ie. land, rocks, cliff) is a fast track to getting kicked out. That includes rock chipping, gluing, forcibly prying on rock, and graffiti.
Personal Property:
Don’t leave your stuff unattended for more than 24 hours (ie. project draws, boulder pads, ropes, geocaches, etc.). It can get removed sooner if it poses a threat to visitor safety or park resources.
Fixed Anchors:
Installing or replacing fixed anchors? You need a permit. New River Alliance of Climbers works closely with NPS on this, so no rogue drilling, folks.
If you see any issue, use this form to report it to NRAC:
Remember, the New River Gorge is our shared playground. By following these guidelines and setting a great example, we can ensure it remains an awesome place for everyone. So gear up, head out, and climb on!
Catch you on the cliffs,
Jeff
New River Mountain Guides is the New River Gorge National Park's premiere rock climbing guide service. For 30 years our team of experienced guides has been dedicated to providing our clients with a customized climbing experiences. From beginner lessons to multi-day trips, we have something for everyone.
