Rainy Day Climbing

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Kristy Rodrigue on a classic Meadow River crack climb in West VirginiaWest Virginia is known for its rain at times so having a place to get out of the rain is good information to have. The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain.

Bridge Buttress

-Rock Shelter Cave- This area has a good diverse assortment of routes including High TImes, Labor Day, Horten’s Tree, and a few 5.12 thin face climbs.


-The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! Lots of 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes to choose from. Lactic Acid Bath is a must do here.

 -Rico Suave Area – Good steep face climbing with a big roof visor at the top to keep you dry. Rico Suave and Out of the Bag are quality lines here.

Junkyard Wall 

 - A great steep bouldering cave to pump you up!! Around the corner from the main area the cave is a good steep climbing training ground.

Endless Wall

-The Cirque – THE driest area at the New! A huge concave wall that creates a good dry hangout for all. Lots of hard climbing and not much else though. A few 5.11s will get you warmed up and then prepare to work hard on this steep impressive wall. Finders Keepers is a great line to check out at the Cirque.

-Central Endless – If you walk the cliff at Endless you will find routes scattered thrughout which are either completely dry or dry up to a hiigh bolt. A few leaver biners on the rack will come in handy.

-Fern Point Cirque – A good reliable spot with two hard dry routes. Modern Primitive and Plyometrics will both be bone dry but crimpy and hard. Be ready to bear down on some small holds….

The Meadow

-Toxic Hueco area – This is not only a fantastic route but in a fantastic area. There is a good selection of routes at the Meadow on a rainy day and TOxic is definitely one to hit.

-Upper Meadow – The First Buttress at the upper Meadow zone has one of the best selections of dry routes in the area. Steep white rock with good 5.11s and 5.12s to choose from.

Summersville Lake

-The Coliseum – Some of the best steep climbing in the country!! Apollo Reed, Mercy Seat, The Pod, just to name a few will all be dry and will all be waiting for you……..

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